Tuesday, February 22, 2011

Living the Goks life!

The sea was once a new experience for us. Having lived most of our life in Bangalore, surrounded by buildings and roads, an open ocean and a distant horizon were by far unheard of. Unless you enjoyed the sight of black smoke, forming fascinating patterns in the sky, Bangalore’s horizon doesn’t have much to offer.

‘Gokarna’ the name sounded exotic and remote. “You’ve seen the movie Beach?” an excited friend asked us. “Gokarna is as close as it gets to such a life.”

That was it, we dropped our pens, shutdown the computers, threw some clothes together in a backpack and set out to discover the pleasures that lay in store. A small research on Gokarna revealed that it was about 160kms from Goa, that inspired in us, more sentiments of euphoria!

Gokarna in principle is a small village-town, blessed with a breathtaking coastline. The four main beaches, each separated by a hill are Kudle, Om, Half Moon and Paradise.

The town in itself is a dusty little place with narrow streets, ancient temples and beautiful wooden houses. Originally a pilgrimage centre, Gokarna literally means ‘cow’s ear.’ The town is formed by the ear shaped confluence of two rivers. The Shiv temple in the heart of Gokarna, attracts hundreds of pilgrims every year. The festival of Shivratri is celebrated in the month of February. The whole town turns into a colourful celebration of life during this time. At other times too, Gokarna is a spiritual experience. The town makes you feel like you’ve been transported to a different time. The most amazing experience is what you feel inside the Shiv temple, at the ‘Atmalinga.’ This place is called the ‘Kasba’, a very strange sensation grips you as you set foot inside. Comforting warmth engulfs everything and penetrates deep into your soul. It’s said that this feeling, is similar to what a baby feels inside the mother’s womb. You’ve got to experience it to believe it.

The trek from the town bus stop to Kudle beach is a 20 minute one, which we attempted in the middle of a hot afternoon. Turns out, that’s not such a great idea. Carry lots of water and glucose biscuits with you. Panting and perspiring we reached the top of the hill, an amazing view of Kudle beach jolted our senses and the heat faded away momentarily. Miles and miles of clear blue seas, a dreamy distant horizon and the brilliant sparkle of sunlight on the waves greeted us. An adrenalin rush sent us trudging along downhill towards our paradise.

At the first sight of water, in we all went. Clothes, shoes, trekking gear and all. The calm, cool, tranquil sea provided much needed respite from heat. Kudle beach is a long stretch of clean, smooth sands and picturesque palms. Small huts along the sides give it an ethnic feel.

Our destination being Om beach, we braved the sun and carried on deeper into Gokarna. Soaking wet, nicely salted, sporting satisfied smiles we went uphill, it’s a half an hour trek to OM. Again the view from top is absolutely spellbinding. You can see the OM formation of the beach clearly during low tide. This is perhaps the longest beach stretch at Gokarna. Little shacks line this coast as well. Accommodation on the beach, costs anywhere between Rs.20 to Rs.100, depending upon, how much you are willing to rough it.

Our shack cost 40 bucks a night and gave us the privilege of taking open air showers. The ‘bathroom’ had coconut leaves for walls and the open sky for a roof. A small pipe protruding from a black can-like water tank was the shower. And you had to sing out loud to make sure no one walked in while you’re in there. Despite minor bloopers and many embarrassing situations, it was a blast! Especially those late night showers, under the starlit sky.

Food is cheap and retains that local flavour. Fresh fish, cooked in the traditional style, flavoured lassis and helpful, friendly natives make the food taste extra delicious. A surprisingly wide variety of grub is available at those tiny shacks!

Trekking is a great way to build an appetite. And eating is a great way to energize for another trek! Beware of getting into this extremely addictive vicious cycle.

Half-moon and paradise are small beaches, perfect for those seeking complete solitude and peace. Trekking there takes almost an hour, provided you don’t lose your way. We unfortunately did, and scaled the sea side of the hills trying to dodge waves that kept lashing against the rocks. Don’t try that unless you’re well and truly lost and desperate.

Half-moon has absolutely nothing on it and vanishes during high tide. It’s completely uninhabited. Paradise has a few shacks during the season, it’s aptly named considering how peaceful and serene you feel sitting there with just the sea for company. An easier way of getting to these beaches is by boat, which again is available only during the season, unless you coax a fisherman to give you a ride.

Three days of bumming around on the beaches, reflecting upon profound thoughts, discovering hidden underground caves, being tossed around by big waves, pigging out on exotic food, more bumming around, tiresome treks and almost settling down with the natives, gave us quite a few insights to life. It was while leaving Gokarna that we noticed from atop the hill, a huge foundation for what is rumored to be a Five star beach resort. Things are going to change down there, commercialization has set foot. We hope Gokarna stays just the way it is. Untouched, unspoiled and stunningly beautiful.

Because Gokarna is for the true adventure seeker, it is a place to re connect with that inner self and meditate on life and beyond. For no adventure is greater than the one that takes you within yourself!

Experiencing the Cherry land!

A bright morning dawned upon the sleepy little town along the eastern coast of India. Rolling waves crashed upon the rocky beach as we sat gazing into the horizon, the sun nearly blinding us as it slowly climbed onto the sky. Pondicherry, was already bustling with life!

A small town, situated 162 kms from Chennai, Pondicherry houses a quaint mix of Indian as well as French culture, cuisine and people. A French colony since 1699, Pondy went through a series of changes before becoming a part of independent India in 1954.

The French influence, though strongly lives on and is reflected in the architecture, lifestyle and language.

Pondicherry is a really small place, no matter where you go, it takes ten minutes to get there. Cycles are the best means of transport and easily available on a daily rental basis. Pondy as it’s popularly called, has a good number of options in terms of places to stay. On arriving there, armed with a local guide book, we headed straight to the Sri Aurobindo Ashram, where it said we’d get “comfortable, reasonable accommodation.” The Asharam, founded in 1926 by Sri Aurobindo, the sage, poet and revolutionary, is a place for spiritual, religious and educational development. Sri Aurobindo and The mother’s (disciple of Sri Aurobindo) Samadhi in the heart of the Ashram is the cynosure, where devotees kneel in silent prayer and peaceful meditation. We found two guesthouses, both quite reasonable. The park guest house is simple with clean rooms serving vegetarian food, costing around Rs.200 a day. The international guest house, a much cheaper option for the budget traveler, costs Rs.70 to Rs. 350, depending on the facilities each room offers. The sea is a short walk from the ashram and so is the market, hence getting accommodation is a little difficult, as everyone wants to stay here.

Some of the other places to stay, include Anandha Inn (tel: 0413 30711), Hotel Pondicherry Ashok, a government run hotel you can try staying at if cleanliness is not a priority and saving money is. (tel :605 160) Hotel Surguru, a pleasant place to stay, mostly frequented by business people (tel: 39022). Alternately you could check in to the first place that grabs your attention, kick off your shoes and head straight to the beach!

Food, in Pondy is cheap and extremely tasty. Try eating at some of the local joints that line the streets. That’s where the real taste lies! South Indian food, like Dosas, Vada-Sambar, Rice meals and the like are very satisfying and are served real fast. The ice cream Parlour, ‘Richie Rich’ on J.N Street (Jawaharlal Nehru Street) serves unbelievably delicious ice creams, the kind we had never tasted before! If in mood for some yummy Chinese cuisine, ‘Blue Dragon’ on Dumas street is a good option.

Pondy is basically made up of three main streets that intersect each other and divide the town into squarish columns. M.G road, J.N. Street and Mission Street are the hub of activity, a stroll down these roads on a Sunday evening will give you a good dose of Pondy’s local flavour and style. The Sunday market is a must see, it’s full of street vendors selling clothes, that are not only good but also branded! This market spells paradise for women, especially the Tibetian shop at the end of mission street, right opposite a large Bata showroom, selling clothes, lingerie, shoes and accessories for prices as low as Rs. 50 ! Bargain hard and you’ll come out victorious with your hands full!

One of the main attractions around Pondy, is ‘Auroville,’ that lies about 10 kms away. Auroville is a universal township where people from around the world live together in spiritual harmony. At the centre of this place stands the ‘Matrimandir’ a giant sphere that has a lotus shaped urn containing sands from Indian states and 175 countries around the world. The Matrimandir is a place for meditation; we were stunned at the silence that surrounds the entire structure and the room in the middle that holds the urn. It’s entirely white and the walls, roof and floor are indistinguishable from one another. An indescribable sensation gripped us as we entered that room, almost like a head rush but not quite that. All of us shared it, but still can’t express the feeling. Unfortunately, Matrimandir is no longer open to the public due to security reasons.

We spent most of our time in Pondy riding rented bikes gleefully along the east coast road (ECR), stopping by for a quick dip every time the heat got to us. It’s a great life, but could get dangerous in the evenings as many funny characters hang around the beach.

Some of the other places of interest that we briefly visited were The Romain Rolland Library near the town beach that has a collection of over 60,000 books including some very rare French volumes. The Pondicherry Museum, a Botanical garden and the Church of Sacred Heart of Jesus located on South Boulevard. The free eye camp near the town beach (ask the ashram people for directions) is an amazing place. The doctors there, can heal the most complicated of sight disorders with a few simple exercises, which if followed regularly can work miracles!

We were told that the Chunnambar resort is a great place for water sports and virgin beaches but didn’t manage to get there due to time constraints.

Pondy was an experience that taught us to just let go and follow our instincts. It’s a town so full of culture and spirituality that it keeps drawing us back. It’s a small place with so much to do, every street holds intrigue and every face has a story to tell.

Go ahead and explore the place, walk with the shadows, taste the sea and chase those clouds in the tropical sky. You’ll find, Pondy is a treasure enclave!

General info: (Today, nearly 20 000 Pondicherry people live in France and nearly 10 000 french citizens live in the Territory of Pondicherry.)

Trekker’s paradise - Kudremukh

If your idea of a holiday includes trekking, camping out, barbeques and backpacks, Kudremukh is your destination. Far from being a commercial hill station, Kudremukh is a quiet, serene place, blessed with immense natural beauty. Most people feel that there’s not much to see at Kudremukh. This belief, besides being wrong, is thankfully one of the main reasons why tourists do not flock to this place. Kudremukh is a visual treat, especially after the monsoons. It lies 95kms south-west of Chikmagalur. The actual peak of Kudremukh rises to the height of 1,895mts above sea level, second only to the Mullyangiri peak in the Baba Budangiri range that stands 1930 mts tall.

It’s when you set your eyes on the hill-scape of this land, that you will fully understand what the term ‘rolling green hills’ means. As you climb through winding roads into the town of Kudremukh, thick vegetation broken by occasional patches of grassland greets you. The feeling, that you have left modern civilization far behind, begins to settle in as you near the town. The industrial town of Kudremukh was built for the employees of the Kudremukh iron ore factory, the mining operations of which were ordered to shut down in December 2005. Following this verdict, many lost their jobs at the Kudremukh factory. Now, the town resembles a ghost town from an old horror movie. All the shops are concentrated in one small market area. There are no modern conveniences, no restaurants and no places to stay in the town. The only place that offers accommodation is the government guest house eight kms from the town. To find this place, you need exceptional navigational skills and keen eyesight. It appears out of nowhere between the forest and has a very small sign that reluctantly announces the name of the place. While coming from the town, it appears on your left hand side, so pay close attention to any sign you may see.

Once take the turn, you will find yourself on an overgrown trail that looks like it hasn’t been used in years. The trail, after convincing you that you’re lost, opens out to an old building. This is the ‘reception’ of the guest house. The old cook, who has an uncanny resemblance to Ramu Kaka, will then lead you deeper into the forest to the actual guesthouse. The place is truly wild. Wild Bison freely walk around the guesthouse at night.

Kudremukh is also the birth place of river Kali. A part of it flows through the guesthouse premises. Besides the two roomed guesthouse, you can stay in the tents which are a short distance away. If you are a true adventure seeker, seek permission from the authorities to camp out in the forest! For the avid trekkers, there are several trekking paths. Some lead up to the peaks of the hills, while some into the forest. The biggest and most challenging of all treks is the one that leads you up to the Kudremukh peak. The trek starts from a point which is six kms from Kudremukh town. You will find a board there that says ‘Trek to Kudremukh starts here’. It is a four-five hour climb to the peak. The view is beautiful with streams, grass patches and valleys. Carry some salt with you to sprinkle on the leeches that will inevitably get you. While the path is easy at first, it gets narrower and steeper after an hour. It’s when you reach the first clearing, that you’re rewarded with a panoramic view of the valley below. Look around and you will see several lofty hill tops and from between them will emerge the tip of one particular hill that’s shaped like a horse’s head; the infamous Kudremukh, which in Kannada means ‘horse head’. The locals used to call this peak ‘Kudre Mukha’, which eventually became the name of the town.

While trekking towards it, often the peak looks close enough for a quick dash, but don’t fall for these illusions. You will reach it in good time and the view will be worth the hike. On clear days, the town of Mangalore can be seen from the peak. At other times, you will be engulfed by clouds and mist, which gives you the impression of being in a dream. Permission to trek up there is not easy to come by because of the possible presence of Naxals. But when you do get the permission, it’s all the more exciting!

If you want to get back to base by sun down, you need to start the trek early so that you reach the peak by 12 in the afternoon. Authorities don’t let people camp up there but there are a couple of other peaks where camping is possible, with due permission of course. For people who are not keen on long treks, there are a lot of smaller hills you can scale. The view from atop all of these hills is breathtaking.

The forest authorities organize safaris into the Kudremukh National Park. There are thirteen trekking routes inside the park. The total expanse measures almost 600 sq kms, extending from the Jamalabad Fort in the south (Belthangady district) to the Narasimha Parvatha in the North (Sringeri Taluk). The park adjoins Someshwara Wildlife Sanctuary on the western side and Pushpagiri Wildlife Sanctuary on the East. The park is renowned for sightings of Tigers, Leopards and Wild Dogs. Besides these, the Sambar, Gaur, Common Langur, Wild Pig and Long Tailed Macaque are common sights as well.

In the midst of all the beauty that surrounds you at Kudremukh, there are traces of obliteration that’s evidently man made. One example is the Kudremukh factory dam. In between the hills and the forest, the dam sticks out like a sore thumb. Not because it’s man made, but because it’s completely filled with a dull grey substance that has hardened and cracked. The entire scene looks surreal; different shades of green, broken by a large expanse of grey chemicals, hardened to stone.

At the end of the day, Kudremukh is still paradise. The quaint little town, simple people, breathtaking beauty and those rolling green hills!

How to get there

By Road (recommended) Distance in Kms from Bangalore – 350kms ( Route – Chikmangalur – Hassan- Sringeri)

By Air – Nearest Airport is in Mangalore, which is 130kms from Kudremukh

By Rail – Nearest railway station is Mangalore, 130kms from Kudremukh

Places of interest around Kudremukh

Jamalabad Fort – Built by Tipu Sultan in1794. The Jamalabad village is close to Belthangadi. Locals believe that this fort was connected to another fort in Sakleshpur Taluk via an underground tunnel. The distance between the two forts is 50kms as the crow flies.

Gangamoola – Three major rivers; Thunga, Badra and Nethravathi originate at the Gangamoola hill. This hill lies in the Samse Taluk of Chikmagalur district. The main attraction here is a cave in which there are two idols; one of the Goddess Bhagavathi and the other is a Varaha idol about 1.8m tall.

Bhadra Wild life sanctuary – Also known as Muthodi, it lies 38 kms north-west of Chikmagalur town. Bison,elephants, tigers, panthers, porcupine, sambar, boars, peacocks etc are some of the animals found here.

Baba Budan Giri and Mullyangiri Range – Mullyangiri is the highest peak in Karnataka. It stands 1930 mts tall. Baba Budingiri takes its name from the saint who came from Yemen and brought with him coffee seeds. That’s how the place became a popular coffee plantation area.

Places to Stay

The Forest department guesthouse is the only option if you want to stay within the forest.

To stay in any of the Government owned guest houses, contact the following authorities:

Deputy Conservator of Forests,

Kudremukh Wildlife Division,
Karkala 574 104, Udupi District

Tuesday, February 15, 2011

BR Hills!


Monsoons were around the corner with overcast skies, romantic weather and another impulsive plan to get out of the city and soak in the joys of nature.
BR hills, according to the map, were smugly nestled between the eastern and western Ghats at an altitude of 3375 meters above sea level.
Excitement settled in fast, bags were packed and a group of random people quickly assembled on the designated morning, all set to go.

Driving down we encountered innumerable bad roads before finally entering the forest area. Here the roads and scenery improved but the forest guards told us not to get off the car as wild animals hang about in the vicinity. Half an hour down the forest road, just when we were experiencing complete solitude, an entire village suddenly popped out of the wilderness. Cattle, chicken, huts and people lived here in perfect harmony with nature. A few minutes away lies the Jungle lodges resort.

June to October is the peak season, booking a room before landing up there, would be advisable. Having forgotten to do so, our persuasion skills were put to severe tests and found to be reasonably successful. We got a large room on the first floor. The resort is an old English style building with rooms in it and cottages all around. These unconventional cottages are made of waterproof canvas walls and a cemented roof. BR hills has no power supply, everything works on solar energy. Lights go out by 9 pm and hand lanterns are given out to people who refuse to sleep. There’s nothing much you can do with those lanterns except stare into them, so you’re better off just sleeping at 9.

The open jeep forest safari offered twice a day is thrilling and fast paced. Monkeys form a large part of the wild life population, followed by deer, wild boars and bison. Elephants are surprisingly rare and leopards are spoken about in hushed tones. A framed photograph of a tiger’s rear and tail adorns one wall of the resort, proving that Tigers do in-fact exist in the sanctuary. Barking deer, a shockingly small animal that actually barks like a dog was a first to us. Wild Boars look a lot like our friendly pot bellied city pigs but have an upturned snout and little tusks. We were instantly reminded of Asterix and looked on hungrily at the unsuspecting animals. Bison are extremely lazy and love posing for photographs. Monkeys are greedy and love snatching away your food.

After the safari we eyed the large hammocks high up in the trees, they’re big enough to accommodate 4 to 5 people at the same time. Sumptuous lunch and dinner buffets kept us nice and satisfied at all times. Not to mention the delicious breakfasts, that got us going every morning.

Dawn is a beautiful time; we took a walk into the forest one morning hoping to perhaps glimpse a few tigers, praying at the same time that none be around. A guy from National Geographic with fancy equipment was on the prowl, we followed him around for a bit but he managed to shake us off. Hence we explored our photographic talents and came away with some really nice snaps.

Sighting two elephants a little distance away, got us all worked up and excited. It was only after several minutes of mindless running that someone spotted the chains on their feet. These were tame elephants used for the elephant safari. Crest fallen we trekked back uphill to the lodge. Another lazy hammock session would have followed if it weren’t for the monkeys that hung about eyeing us with an untrustworthy look in their eye.

BR hills is heaven for the lazy man. Pleasant weather, overcast skies, a light drizzle, warm clothes, delicious food and hills all around.
Memories shall remain, though we left those hills behind. We’ll always smell the rain on damp forest grounds. Serene, pollution-free and green, BR hills are the perfect destination for a vacation that’s completely tension free.

Dandeli: A sacred sanctuary!

"Hey! Where are you spending new years?" was the question we heard from everyone. While most of our friends planned on partying into the New Year at some of the most happening places around town, we decided to try something a little different. After running like headless chickens trying to book tickets, we finally managed to get the last two hard back seats in a modest Government bus, to the wild life sanctuary of Dandeli.
The journey wasn't a joy ride, but the excitement of getting away to a remote forest, kept our spirits up.

After changing a series of buses at Dandeli town, we finally managed to get into a jeep that would take us to our destination, 'The old magazine forest house camp." Getting there was an experience in itself. Holding on with two fingers and half a leg we journeyed along the winding roads of Dandeli, deep into the forest. Tired yet unwilling to give in to exhaustion we hiked the last two kilometers by foot. A mud trail led us into the heart of the forest, there deep inside, we found a beautiful settlement. The old magazine forest house camp, thus named because it used to be a storehouse for dynamites and magazines at one time, today it’s a peaceful haven offering all necessary comforts in the midst of nowhere.

Huts, pretty little ethnic bamboo huts that can accommodate up to 4 people give the place a very quaint feel. Every hut has a full-fledged bathroom attached with hot water available at certain times. A relaxing hot shower was just what we needed to wash exhaustion away at the end of the day! Our trip was planned for three days and there were a lot of activities to choose from. Whitewater rafting in the Kali River, trekking into the forest, kayaking, canyoning, canoe rides, mountain biking, elephant rides, fishing and lots more. White water rafting, we were told is a must do. We looked forward eagerly to an exciting dawn.

The next morning, our heads reeling with the sweet intoxication of fresh forest air, we followed the delicious aromas of breakfast up to the dining area on top of the 'bunk house.' The 'bunk house' is semi-private cubicles comprising of teak wood bunk beds. It has common bathrooms on the outside, which are kept clean and hygienic. Cheaper than the ethnic huts, this is an economical option for the budget traveller.

We gorged on fresh eggs and toast and washed it down with delicious organic tea. The dining area is charmingly rustic with simple furniture, made of wood. Low cushioned seating lines the sides of the terrace. Sitting there later that night we gazed into the starry skies, never had we seen as many stars as we did that night!

Canyoning is an interesting thing. It involves descending down a waterfall, with water streaming from above. A jeep took us into the forest and we trekked along deeper inside towards the waterfall. We followed a glistening stream all the way to where it cascaded down the rocks. The experienced guides helped us with the safety equipment and gave us the basic instructions. We managed to get through it all right, the only casualty being, a leather shoe that split open from the front. Moral of the story: do not wear leather shoes while Canyoning.

After lunch we set out in high spirits towards the river. We were all given life jackets, paddles, helmets and a crash course in rafting. Soon we found ourselves screaming our way down the white rapids of the river, paddling furiously to keep up with the instructions being shouted over the sound of the water. Apart from knocking a friend off the raft with a paddle and getting another in the eye, our rafting trip was a success! It's one of the craziest things to do and the most enjoyable too. Rafting for 3 hours costs Rs.900 per head but it's worth all that and more!
Dinner was great homely food, piping hot and very tasty. Specialties include wood oven pizzas, barbecues and baked fish. All cooked really well!

It gets pretty cold at night and the bon fire is a blessing. Warm shades of fire, playing upon the dark shadows in the forest, are enchanting to watch. We sat there for what seemed like an eternity, bewitched by the beauty of nature, all of us felt a connection and we shared its magic in silence.

The next day saw us planning a kayaking trip followed by a trek to sunset point. Kayaking is a tad complicated. It requires a lot of practice. A kayak is a solo white water boat, which in our case refused to move forward. Instead it insisted on going into a spin and promptly turned over. After being spat out repeatedly by the kayak, we held our heads high and waded out the water in dignified protest. Only to be ushered back in by the friendly guides. Dizzy and determined, we spiraled our way down the river. Thankfully not through too many rapids!

The Canoe tour is for the true adventure seeker. It's a 2 or 3 day tour on the backwaters of the Supa reservoir, including one or two night’s camp on some totally uninhabited islands. Unfortunately we didn't have enough time for this one.

Followed by another delicious lunch buffet, we relaxed a bit and tried to dry out our wet shoes. The weather being very pleasant around the year, the shoes didn't dry and we trekked up to sunset point making squeaky sounds all the way.

The view was unbelievable. The river kali below looked like an ocean and the hills were engulfed in clouds. The whole thing looked unreal. The sunset was spectacular. All colours imaginable enveloped the sky and water below. We were suddenly bathed in myriad shades of the evening sun. Our eyes mesmerized by the deep red setting sun, our spirits soaring to heights of mystical serenity!

Our last day was a quiet one. We strolled around the forest, soaking in the forest air, catching glimpses of the giant red squirrel and many rare species of birds. Animals, on the other hand, are hard to come by, in fact all we saw were buffaloes, which someone claimed were wild ones.
Dandeli is not easy to leave behind and that’s perhaps the reason why we never did leave. Even today the memory lingers in the mind’s eye and we relive it everyday!

Journey back in time!


Hampi: The Empire of ruins and dreams.

We arrived at Hampi in true royal style, our three-wheeled chariot jolted to a stop, knocking our already smarting heads, together for the nth time. As we painfully got off that shiny black auto, trying to soothe our many aches, the friendly driver bedazzled us with his brilliant, all-teeth-shining smile. Manju the man behind the ultimate machine that took us to every nook and hidden corner of the rustic, mysterious town of Hampi became our guide and trusted friend that moment on.

8kms from the city of Bellary, where the nearest railway station is situated, Hampi remains one of the most exotic tourist destinations in the country. From wild hippie parties across the Thungabadra River to scenic sunsets amidst ruins, Hampi invokes in you a sense of overwhelming ecstasy as well as peace and serenity.

Away from the noise and chaos of city life, we loosened our collars, grabbed our cameras and set off on an adventure, back in time. Manju took us to all the famous structures including the temple with the stone chariot and musical pillars. We watched and listened in awe, the images and sounds of days gone by. He told us of musicians who made exquisite music solely with hollow stone pillars, each of which sounded a different note. The royal courtesans danced to this music, entertaining the king and his guests during the annual feast, when all the townsfolk would gather around the main temple. It is said that the music could be heard even from a kilometer away.

We saw it all materialize before our eyes, they came alive! The dancers, the street vendors selling gold, diamonds and precious gems, the musicians of the pillars, we even thought we caught a glimpse of the king himself!

Mystical shades of the setting sun, reflected in lazy waters of a mighty river, majestic structures of ruined palaces and temples of another time, tend to have an intoxicating effect on the mind. And that’s perhaps the reason why we still believe, we relived 3 centuries in 3 days!

Astounding architecture, the finesse of design, the accuracy of each structure, literally took our breath away. Built with no modern tools or scientific equipment, their flawless perfection baffled us then and still remains a mystery today.

Everything, from bright sunflower fields to local home cooked meals at little shacks and colourful gypsies by the roadside to deserted ruins held us spellbound and told us a different tale. In silence we heard a story, of empires that rose and fell, of battles fought on this soil, of celebration and of joy. We soaked it all up as best as we could. From spiraling around in small wooden boats to trekking under a hot sun in the ruins, from sitting atop a hill, the moon smiling in our faces, to stealing a quick swim under the stars…Hampi was a lifetime, we lived in a moment!